Sales
are of the ubiquitous comfy boot are finally falling. Has the rest of
the world realised what the fashionistas always knew? Plus, we tell you
what to do with your old, unfashionable Uggs.
Ugg boots – no longer so attractive to shoppers. Photograph: Alamy
It may be an object of derision throughout the fashion industry, but the
Ugg
boot – a bit like the bootcut jean, or the square-toed office-boy shoes
– has refused to die. Over the past 10 years, sales continued to rise,
and their squat, solid, shearling-lined shapes became the footwear of
young Britons nationwide.
Until now. The newest sales figures from Deckers, the Ugg parent group, are down 31%. While this has been put down to mild weather, and prices of the boots rising, it's a minor victory for fashion. While not defeated – prices will be reduced in a bid to boost sales – its footwear nemesis is showing signs of weakness.
In
truth, these signs have been there for a while. Uggs are undeniably
comfortable – they're more often worn as slippers in their native
Australia – but the ubiquity of them, and their many imitations, has led
to overkill. Bad press has been growing. In a survey in 2010, they were
voted one of the 10 items men don't like on women and a judge recently ruled they can be dangerous to wear while driving.
They originally gained fashionability in 2001 when they were worn by celebrities including Cameron Diaz, but recent advocates include Joey Essex:
hardly an advert for a chic, off-duty look. Rana Reeves, founder of
brand agency John Doe, believes this has damaged the reputation of the
brand. "I'd say they're in a similar position to when Daniella Westbrook
wore Burberry," he says. "They need to go back to basics."
That's
certainly not something the brand has been doing recently. Instead,
expansion has been the policy. With sales increasing by as much as 67% in one quarter of 2009,
confidence has been understandably high – and has led to some
questionable ranges appearing alongside the classic boot. The firm has
expanded into high-heeled styles with price points over £300, handbags,
and even a bridal collection. It might be a case of one spongy step too
far. "Ugg's core product is seasonal," says Honor Westnedge, senior
retail analyst at Verdict Research. "While it has tried to diversify
into new ranges, these have struggled to achieve the same level of
popularity as its winter boot collections."
Westnedge points to
the relatively high price of Uggs as a problem, "in a period of limited
discretionary spending", and suggests that consumers are unlikely to buy
more than one pair. There's also the issue that they may simply be out
of vogue. New competitors in the boot market include Hunter, Le Chameau
(the brand favoured by the Duchess of Cambridge) and, recently, Converse. In contrast to Ugg, Hunter has seen its profits rise – 38% last year – and style leaders from Kate Moss to Sarah Jessica Parker wear its boots.
Reeves believes its success is down to a savvy marketing policy. "They
stay true to what they are," he says. "They're functional, they keep
your feet dry. Hunter have done some collaborations but they have never
tried to be fashion. That's what Ugg did, and that's where they went
wrong." Fashion has long rejected Uggs – it looks like the rest of the
populace is finally following its lead.
